Common Uses of Decks for Businesses

Common Uses of Decks for Businesses


Decks can play a great role in promoting your business. You can decide to have decks built into different sizes where they will offer you enough space to do things like display the samples of all the items that you are selling. After people know about your products, they will end up referring others to your business, which in the long run will lead you to performing better than your competitors. In order to ensure the deck that you are going to build is able to serve you satisfactorily, you should hire a professional with great experience to build it for you. Orlando Decks is always an excellent choice. Here are common uses of decks for businesses:

Entertaining Clients

In order to help potential clients develop great interest in you and your products, a way to entertain them is key. There are different types of entertainment which you can use to attract potential customers. In order to ensure you are using the right form of entertainment, you should study the interests of your customers and design for them an entertainment that will best suit them. If possible you should carry out surveys to familiarize yourself with the preferences of the customers.

Hosting Product Parties

Decks for businesses will form the best platforms to host product parties. After hosting the product parties, more people will know about the products that you are offering. This will in return reflect positively on the overall profit which you will make. The deck will pay for itself in no time! While holding product parties on the deck, you should have samples of the products so that your potential customers can get a feel for them to develop more interest.

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Deck Building

Sheri Koones thinks prefabricated houses are, well, fabulous.

If the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the words “prefab home” or “factory-built” is trailer, think again. Many of these homes have been created by architects and designers, are highly energy efficient and add style and sustainability. She makes that case in her latest book, “Prefabulous Small Houses.”

In the book, she explores 25 houses ranging in size from 400 to 2,000 square feet, all built in various ways from modular systems to kit packages.

“Houses around the world are so energy efficient and contain such incredible technology — things we just don’t do here,” she said.

But the idea has caught on and so has the industry with many companies, particularly here in Southern California, specializing in building these structures.

Koones decided to be involved in the design and building of her house in 1998 and spent hours in the library doing research for herself and her book, “From Sandcastles to Dream Houses.” During the process, she learned about roofing, siding, trim and just about everything else that goes into the making of a house. At about the same time, a friend was involved with a prefab construction project. “The question everyone asked was, do you mean double-wides?”

It piqued her interest, which led to more research and ultimately her latest book.


What people may not know is that the term “prefabricated” involves several types of construction, and while it may seem new here, it’s something people in other parts of the world have embraced for years. The houses she profiled meet the universal code along with local building codes.

“These are sophisticated houses and by far are the most practical ones I’ve covered in all my books,” said Koones, who now is convinced that prefabricated homes are the way to go since they cost less and are more environmentally friendly than traditional homes. Owners can bypass delays, pilfering, change orders and mess.

“I will never build a house on-site again, personally. Prefabricated homes are a cleaner and more professional way to build,” she said.

Sterling Scott couldn’t agree more. He found a great lot in Silver Lake 15 years ago that sports drop-dead gorgeous views of downtown Los Angeles on a clear day. The only problem was the lot size — a conventional house wouldn’t fit. So the lot sat empty until he found out about prefabricated homes, which seemed to be an answer to his building dilemma.

Situated on a narrow yet deep parcel, the space called for a custom home that would fit the footprint while maximizing those killer views. Scott went the prefabricated route, opting to go with LivingHomes of Santa Monica. He followed the house’s progress, even visiting it at the LivingHomes Plant Prefab Rialto factory while it was being built. The company also caught the eye of Dwell on Design, the annual industry event that spotlights just about everything to do with homes. His home was brought to the Los Angeles Convention Center and showcased last summer.


He admits to being a little floored when he saw it displayed.

“I walked through it before the crowds did. I wanted to tell people to take their shoes off,” he said with a laugh.

A bit unconventional to be sure, but the house was a hit. Scott is happy with his choice.

His cost is $296,000 for the house and $220,000 for the foundation, transporting the house and connecting to utilities. It’s equipped with about $100,000 in upgrades because of the Dwell appearance — all worth it, he said, since a new home in Silver Lake costs a lot more than $600,000. The LivingHomes/Plant Prefab model is dubbed the CK4.2 and is a two-storied, 1,700-square-foot home with three bedrooms and 2½ bathrooms. It includes a LEED platinum level environmental program featuring materials, finishes and systems that reduce energy, water and resource use.

After its Los Angeles debut, it went back into storage waiting on-site preparation. The foundation was finished just before Christmas. The house was expected to be delivered shortly afterward and is projected to be completed in six weeks.

“It’s taken longer than expected, but that hasn’t changed my mind for going this way,” Scott said. “In my case, it really didn’t cost less money to do a prefab, but the good thing is that I knew the cost of the house upfront. It’s a set price, it’s very progressive and green and should work with the lot.”

Scott has always been enamored with older homes and chose the floor plan from the company’s website while tweaking it a bit to better reflect a post-modern, mid-century modern look.

“It’s like building a regular house except it’s done in a factory, transported and stitched together,” he said.


He admitted, though, that the concept is new, even with some building departments and general contractors. It can take some research. When Scott visited LivingHomes/Plant Prefab founder Steve Glenn’s prefabricated home in Santa Monica, he was sold.

“Many don’t understand what prefab means,” he said, “and they think it is less than a regular home, but it isn’t.”

“Plant Prefab was created to address an extremely large and growing market opportunity — the urban infill market — and it leverages the vast amount of knowledge we’ve acquired in the 10 years since we started LivingHomes,” Glenn said in a statement. “Our mission is to make it easy, fast and cost-effective for people to build custom, high-quality homes that are durable, environmentally responsible and healthy.”

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How to Build a Deck – part three

You are now ready to begin prepping your ledger board, and your first step will be to create the holes for your bolts (or screws). Check with your local zoning board to find out if they have any specific regulations for the location of the lag screws. Drill all of your holes with a bit that is 1/8″ larger than the screw so that you have room for adjustments, and drill in pairs – one on top of the other – every 15″. Drill your first two holes 1″ from each end of the board for proper holding then drill the others. Drilling all of the holes at once will prevent mistakes. Now temporarily attach the ledger board to your home (using nails) and using a pencil, mark each hole that you drilled into the ledger board. Remove the ledger board from the side of the house and using a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your ledger board screws, drill the holes into the house that correspond to the drill holes in the ledger board.

Decking Company

Using a smaller drill it allows the screws set into the side of the house better, providing a firmer support for your ledger board. Before reattaching the ledger board permanently, fill each hole that you created with silicone caulking which will prevent the holes from retaining rainwater. To prevent rotting of the wood, you will want to now place your ledger board screws into the ledger board, and using rust resistant washers, begin the process of attaching the ledger board to your home. Using the washers for ½” to ¾” from the surface of your home not only helps prevent later decay but will also assist you in leveling out uneven surfaces (shingles, siding, etc.). After you have threaded the lag screws into the ledger, installed the proper number of washers on each screw, and squirted caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall, and, with a socket or crescent wrench, tighten the screws making sure that the screws are biting into the wall, especially the last 2”. You should consider applying a waterproofing compound to the ledger board, minimally the exposed ends. You may want to waterproof the entire board, especially if the deck is in an area of your home that gets little sun.

You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes. Deck joists, which support the decking or surface of the deck, should be installed so that they hang from the ledger board (this provides additional stability to your deck). Placing your joists so that the bowed edge (no piece of wood is ever perfectly straight) is pointing up (crowning the joist) allows the bow to settle as weather affects it. When selecting the end joists, select the two straightest ones that you have and nail them to the edges of the outer ledger board using galvanized nails. After the end is nailed to the ledger, drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the floating end level and at a right angle to the ledger board. Your goal should be to guarantee that the two outside joists are at a right angle to the ledger board which can be done by measuring along the ledger board from the outside edge eight feet and marking it then measuring the joist at six feet. Measure between the two marks and if it measures ten feet then it truly is a right angle, if not re-adjust until it is ten feet between marks. Once you have it exact, nail some temporary cross braces from the ledger to the joists at an angle to keep the joists in place. You should now have your two outer joists level, at true right angles from the ledger board, and supported by stakes.

How to Build a Deck – part two

The materials you will need to build your deck include pier blocks, post anchors, nails, railing stock, lag bolts (or screws), flashing (if required), decking, ledger board, girder stock, band joists, caulk, water repellant, post stock, joist hanger sealers and nails, string, brackets (right angle), concrete and post caps.

The most common mistakes in building decks occur when the builder uses badly bowed board, chooses the wrong location (or height) doesn’t use proper woods (such as redwood, cedar or pressure treated lumbers) or fails to follow building codes. You can avoid these mistakes by avoiding them in the first place!


You will also need to determine if your deck is going to be a free-standing unit or if it will be attached to your home. The procedures for each of these varies and will have to be closely followed to ensure a well stabilized deck, but also, check your municipalities regulations, as many times decks that are not attached to your home may not be taxable as part of your property!

If you plan to attach your deck to your home, you will need to begin by bolting a ledger board to the house, (basically to attach the deck to) generally installed so that the top of the ledger is 1 1/2″ below the final top surface of the deck allowing the decking boards to be nailed on top. You will want to make sure the ledger board is low enough that once the decking is installed, the level of the deck is at least 1″ below the level of the finished floor inside of your home. The length of the ledger board should be three inches less than the total length of your deck (allowing for joist overhang on each end), and if at all possible, should be all one piece. If you cannot use a one piece ledger board, it is highly recommended that the pieces not be less than eight feet each. When placing the ledger board, bolting is the most important piece of this aspect of your project. The bolts should be positioned so that they penetrate something solid such as wall studs or floor joists. When selecting the ledger board, be certain that it has as little bow to it as possible, as otherwise you will have a curve in your finished deck.

How To Build a Deck

You’ve decided it’s time to build the deck of your dreams and have it available for this summer’s entertainment of friends and family and you are handy enough to do it yourself! There are some basic things you are going to need to do before getting started, before you ever purchase one piece of material for your new dream deck. Remember, the biggest key to a successful deck (besides the time, money and labor you put into it) is the durability of the deck once it is built. By using good materials, taking the time to make sure things are level and weather sealed, your deck will become not only a place for your friends and family to relax but a well thought out and carefully crafted addition to your home.

The first step you will need to take is to check with your local zoning office and find out what (if any) restrictions you will be running into and also apply for any permits that might be needed before you can start constructing your deck. If you have an existing deck, you will have far less resistance applying for your permits than if you’re building a brand new deck. When applying for your permit, chances are you may be asked to provide a set of plans for your deck. They do not have to be professionally done, but they will have to have certain information in them. These include (a) where the deck is going to be (including in proportion to property lines, utility lines, etc.); (b) how much space is between the railings; (c) how high the railings are (minimum 36″); (d) size, spacing and type of construction of the foundation of the deck; (e) size and location of girders; (f) size and spacing of joists; (g) what type of fasteners you will be using; (h) size and type of deck boards; and (i) size of posts. If there are any specific weather issues in your area (floods, hurricanes, etc.) or local zoning requirements, your local zoning office will have specific requirements for some of these items.


One important consideration to consider is handicap accessibility. As with bathrooms (showers, tubs, and sink) and kitchens (sinks, ovens, stoves), many deck designs can be made to make life easier for the elderly. If you plan to live in your house as you grow old, you should strongly consider adding ramps instead of stairs for accessibility.

Material considerations will be your first challenge to overcome when building your deck. There are a variety of materials that are suitable to build a deck including pressure treated lumber, composite material, Aluminum, Western red cedar, teak, mahogany and other hardwoods and recycled planks made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE), polystyrene (PS) and PET plastic as well as mixed plastics and wood fiber. Once you determine your budget you will be best able to determine which type of material is best suited to your individual needs.

Tools will play an important role in your success in building your deck. The proper tools will ensure that your deck is high quality and well built, and while no fancy tools are required, there are some basic tools you will need to be sure you have available before you begin the construction process including: a framing hammer, shovel, level, wheelbarrow, plumb bob, cement hoe, pencil(s), trowel, nail pouch, pry bar, safety goggles, caulking gun, extension cords, socket set, framing square, power saw, saw horses, hand saw, and tape measure.